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Highly Acclaimed

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BUYING GUIDE

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After You've Bought

The Acclaim is a generally very dependable vehicle and low values mean that few are bodged up for sale. Main problem areas relate to bodywork (especially the sills) and overdue servicing (cambelt especially).

Component

General Description

Points to watch

BODYWORK - TOPSIDE Acclaim bodywork is a contradiction. Some parts would rust during lunchtime in the Sahara Desert, others would not corrode if submerged in the Solent for a month.
  • Check front valance - this is invariably corroded but not to the point of perforation. You can do little except patch up and paint over. I've only encountered one new valance over the years - and it's firmly affixed to the front of my CD.
  • Front wings rust around the arches. New replacements are available and good 2/h ones turn up.
  • Rear wheel arches rust as well but nobody makes repair panels. A competent body man can effect a fix.
  • Boot lids rust through condensation, especially at the offside just by the trim strip. Amazingly new lids are still available from Rover.
  • Bonnets corrode at the leading edge just behind the trim strip.
  • Chrome on CD bumpers inevitably suffers from rust spots. Most bumpers have a dent, usually at the rear offside. Straight replacements can be hard to find. Live with it: if you fix it then somebody will back into it within a fortnight!
BODYWORK - UNDERSIDE The main subframe is generally rot proof. Main problem areas are the sills and around the rear suspension.
  • Check the sills. Usual problem point is on the offside just in front of the rear wheel.
  • Rear suspension mounts are another problem area and very hard to fix.
  • Inner rear wings are also prone. These fail because of proximity to the suspension mounts.
ENGINE The Acclaim has a 1335cc twin carburretor overhead camshaft engine known as type Fireball. Peak BHP is about 75 bhp.

Engines are very dependable and long lasting with mileages in excess of 180,000 not unheard of though noticable oil consumption sets in around 140,000.
  • When starting, oil light should go out right away, even if engine has not run for a fortnight.
  • With the engine ticking over, listen for a mild whisper/ticking from the right-hand (alternator) side. This indicates that the water pump is on its way out.
  • Ask for evidence of a recent cambelt change (due every 3 years). If change is due or overdue then budget accordingly.
  • Ask if car burns any oil - you may not get an honest answer but an oil burner means a valve seal or, if high mileage, piston ring failure.
  • Erratic tickover on a warm engine may be dirty or maladjusted carbs, dicky ignition module or wrong valve clearances
GEARBOX - manual Not the slickest change in the world but the gate is well defined. Although in general I prefer autoboxes, I find the Acclaim manual box good fun to use.

Boxes are bulletproof. Indeed their lifespan is unknown as the rest of car usually gives out first! The only problem I've encountered is tired syncromesh on 1st or 2nd from around 60,000. This just means getting used to slightly slower more sympathetic gearchanges.

On low mileage car, gearshift can see a bit notchy. Don't worry - it's probably still running in and use will correct it. 		See Test Drive below.
GEARBOX - Triomatic The wacky but wonderful Hondamatic box fitted to millions of different cars worldwide in the 80s.

They are generally very dependable. If you do get problems then most ordinary autobox repair workshops should be able to cope.
  • Ensure all gears engage correctly.
  • Test driving off from rest in R, L and *.
  • Also see Test Drive below
CLUTCH Usually vice free and long lasting. Even release bearings don't seem to wear.
  • Check for engagement at excessively low or high pedal position - usually just a matter of adjustment
  • Check for judder on take off. This can occur with vehicles left standing for several months, and does sometimes clear itself after several hundred miles. Judder may also indicate worn engine bushes.
STEERING, DRIVESHAFTS AND HUBS Steering is unassisted but quite light, and also fairly precise.
  • Drive car slowly at full lock (left and right) and listen for clicking denoting worn CV joints.
  • Also see Test Drive below
SUSPENSION Acclaim suspension needs minimal maintenance and gives few problems.
  • Do the usual shock absorber tests
  • Some cars do creak a little especially if they have been standing for a while. Lubrication of the suspension will normally rectify this.
BRAKES Discs at front, drums at rear, all self adjusting.

Brakes give no particular problems.
WHEELS AND TYRES Wheels are pressed steel, nothing special and difficult to keep pristine.

Tyres are inexpensive ordinary 155 x 13.
  • Check tyre model. If they are Michelin XZX or Goodyear Grand Prix S then they are the original tyres. They may have plenty of tread but will be very stiff and prone to distortion. This means reduced roadholding and much greater chance of a puncture. They will need replacing ASAP.
  • CD models have a different wheel with a flat centre disk, other models have a raised centre cap. They are interchangeable but keep this in mind if originality is important.
  • Also see Test Drive below
ELECTRICAL Mostly very dependable, but problems arise with wiper motors, electric window mechanism and heated rear screen.
  • Operate indicators, then apply the brakes. If indicators slow down or speed up then there is an earthing problem at the rear.
  • On CD and Avon models, check operation of all electric windows.
  • Where fitted, check electric mirror operation.
  • Operate cigar lighter a time or two and see if it has come loose. Not disastrous but fiddly to fix.
  • Check that rotary clock is adjustable - adjuster wheel should turn easily.
  • During any test drive, put the heated rear window on. At end of run check rear window for warmth.
INTERIOR Cloth seating on most models, with velour (very comfy) in the CD and leather for the Avon.

Interior is generally very durable though front carpets do soil and wear over the years.
  • Check footwell carpets for damp - indicates leaky windscreen seal.
  • Worn carpets will need custom replacement - not available new and probably not so good in donor vehicles.
  • Damaged seat covers and door trims can usually be replaced with good items from scrap vehicles, but this depends on the colour. Beige/Brown part of the spectrum is easy. Other colours, such as blue can be trickier. Seat covers detach quite easily so no need to get a whole new seat.
  • Ensure glove box opens / closes / locks OK
  • Check for wonky interior mirror.
  • Where fitted, check operation of boot hatch in rear nearside seat.
  • Check boot floor hardboard panels for damage. They are a bit flimsy and can get damaged from use and also if spare wheel put away with centre cap in place.

Test Drive

Of the Acclaims I've bought, I only managed to test drive one. The others were variously untaxed, uninsured or had expired MOT certificates. If you are able to do a test drive then refer to the list below.

Check and rectify tyre pressures before the drive to help check steering properly.

Manual gearbox: Ensure proper engagement of all gears. Watch for tired syncromesh on 1st or 2nd - though you can live with this.

Triomatic gearbox: Make sure car will take off from rest in R, L and *. Find a 40 mph limit and see that OD engages.

Once engine is warm, drive at a steady 30 mph in 4th. Check that car does not judder slightly (usually muck in carburretor).

Check for excessive gearstick movement too and fro or unpleasant judder on the overrun - indicates worn engine steady bushes.

Accelerating hard from take off may cause the car to pull to one side. This is torque steer and is normal. It is also partly why the Acclaim engine was detuned before installation in the Rover 213! Steering should be reasonably light, otherwise bad tracking is indicated. If steering pulls to one side, this may be tracking but can be caused by old tyres (original Goodyears etc). Note that rear wheel track is also adjustable so fault could lie there.

Drive slowly on full lock in both directions and listen for clicking CV joints.

Coast the car (manual box) or let it overrun in oD (triomatic) at around 40 mph and listed for bearing wear. This might, however, be masked by tyre noise.

See if door mirrors vibrate at speed, especially driver's side. Good secondhand replacements cost around £20 - or just learn to live with it (I do!).

During gentle braking at low speeds listen for rubbing noise from rear. Could be sticky shoes especially if car was parked up for a while with the handbrake on.

At end of run, leave engine running to ensure that radiator fan comes on.

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